![]() When the mask is added PSP automativcally makes a new layer group of the high pass layer and its mask and transfers the blend mode set for the high pass layer to the group. To make the transition less obvious apply a gaussian blur to the mask layer. I did this by adding a new mask layer (show all), making a rough selection around the head using the lasoo tool and fill the selection with black. If you don't want the eye distracted from the subject you may want to mask the background so the sharpening is applied only to the head. Note the patterns in the stonework are also sharpened and more obvious. I've exagerated the sharpening (by using a hard light blend mode) so it will be more obvious. is the same image sharpened with an high pass filter applied to a duplicate layer to enhance the edges. I think I need to post some examples here to save typing.ġ. To sharpen the subject and not the background I think you would need to use a sharpening method which uses layers and then apply a mask to the sharpening layer so it doesn't act on the background. You have given a good example of a drawback to the handy 'one button' tools in PSP - they apply to the whole image. ![]() You mentioned masking.would you mind elaborating on this? It would help me out a lot! For ex., I do not want the blurry background sharpned but do want my subject to be sharp, especially their eyes. Now, i haven't been able to understand how to sharpen a selected area of an image. i always use curves, i love the time maching effect on certain images, and the vivid filter as well. Thanks for the reply.i tend to us smart photo fix and then tweak it where i think it is necessary. Rampant flowers edited this topic ages ago. The help files in PSP X describe the inbuilt USM function as applying both high and low frequency sharpening, though I would have thought that would be determined by the radius chosen?Įdit - changed wording to differentiate between sharpening in general and sharpening with USM. ![]() There are other ways to sharpen or to apply USM which give even more control and there are several good articles on the web about this. Very handy as that's a widely used way to sharpen but of course it applies the effect to the whole image, whereas doing it manually you can add masks to selectively apply the effect (or blend it in) e.g masking areas of skin so blemishes are not emphasised. High Pass Sharpen, if I've understood the process correctly, is simply a one button press for manual sharpening using the high pass edge enhancement. I don't have a workflow that applies to every photo but I am continually surprised how good the smart photo fix is - a lot of the time it gets carried away with brightness or saturation but once you reign it in the results are usually very good. *I almost always end up tweaking the histogram (brightness and contrast), the colour saturation and often the colour balance (aka white balance) as well. I expect to disagree with most of it, but at least it will show me what direction I want to go in (one-step just does it, and doesn't tell you what it did) *Unsharp mask, because I haven't figured High pass out yet :-) The only other tool that gets most use from me is the Levels editor. The Unsharp Mask is a great tool and one I use selectively on most images other than Raw files. Considering where it started, I was very happy. Nothing else worked, but HPS made it almost look in focus. I haven't used High Pass Sharpen much since I just started using XI, but I had a slightly out of focus old black and white scan that I tried it on. What do you do to almost every photo you take? What do you prefer to use? Unsharp or High Pass, and why? Also, what is your "always do to any photo" workflow? Example, do you use one step photo fix, smart photo fix, etc.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |